Tough Pattern - Advanced Skills required for this one, results worth it
I've made this pattern up twice, once in black raw silk and once in white dupion silk.
This is a tough pattern to follow and I am a fully tertiary trained and qualified milliner.
My first attempt was better than my second, I did not use buckram in the crown, I just hand pleated the silk into deep folds and slipped stitched them in place. It won first prize as part of an ensemble in a costume competition in New Zealand.
The second attempt was using a much lighter weight fabric and I felt I had to line the crown with buckram to support the folds.
I created a buckram frame that was wired and glued and covered in thin wadding to conceal the buckram under the silk.
The result was very 1960s. It was tall and almost weddings cake like. It was quite modish.
If I make it again I won't be using the second method. It was too time consuming and did not do me any favours in the long run.
The most confusing part of this pattern is the brim and the brim lining. They are completely different shapes and I still cannot understand why. In the first hat I just cut the brim fabric twice and ignored the lining piece. It worked out fine.
In the second hat I cut the brim lining in the required shape and struggled, I made it work, but the hat doesn't look great if you check out the lining.
After saying all that, I would still recommend trying it. Use a heavy fabric so that it retains the pleats without to much support. It is a beautiful hat.
Reviewed by: (Verified Buyer) Kate Ferrett from Queensland, Australia.